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You are here: Home / INDUSTRY NEWS / This Is the Equivalent of Charging a Diagnostic Fee When the Customer Wants Wiper Blades Replaced: Dealership Scam or Normal Business Practice?
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This Is the Equivalent of Charging a Diagnostic Fee When the Customer Wants Wiper Blades Replaced: Dealership Scam or Normal Business Practice?

28/08/2025

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According to a recent Reddit r/Justrolledintotheshop forum, an irate owner of a used car needed to remove a wheel from his car, only to discover that he did not have the lug nut wheel lock key. Seeking assistance from a dealership, the OP summarized why he feels the dealership is a stealership and how he dealt with the problem:

“Previous owner misplaced key. Stealership: $169 diag fee plus $100 a wheel for their key set. Dremel, hammer/chisel, and a 21 mm extractor plus 20 minutes labor time: free.” ‒Shredneck

Like many smart DIY car owners, the OP knew how to deal with the problem in light of his view that the idea of a car dealership was ripping him off when a simple glance at his lug nuts in his mind does not qualify as a true automotive “diagnosis”.

Many respondents on the forum thread concurred:

Diagnostic fee?! Lol ‒Electrical_Party7975

The problem is when there’s nothing to diag because the problem is self-evident, now you’re just fleecing customers ‒balding_git

There’s a difference between my check engine lights on and it runs like crap – fix it. And hey, I don’t have a lug nut key. Can you get them off for me?

This is the equivalent of charging a diagnostic fee when the customer wants wiper blades replaced or has a burnt-out light. ‒ InsertBluescreenHere

But are they correct?

What Qualifies as a Diagnosis?

To gain some perspective, let’s consider the parallels between automotive and medical diagnostics, which get into the heart of what you’re actually paying for when you see a mechanic versus when you see a doctor.

A diagnosis is when a trained technician actively tests, inspects, and analyzes the vehicle to determine the root cause of a symptom or warning light. Examples:

  1. Pulling diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) and interpreting them (not just reading the code).
  2. Performing pinpoint tests with a multimeter, oscilloscope, or pressure gauge.
  3. Conducting a smoke test for EVAP leaks.
  4. Tracing electrical faults (bad ground, short, or open circuit).
  5. Road testing a car to reproduce a noise, vibration, or drivability issue.
  6. Disassembling components to confirm internal failure.

All of the above are examples demonstrating skilled labor from the mechanic/service department, not unlike a doctor ordering and interpreting X-rays or lab work.

What Does Not Qualify as a Diagnosis

Things that are more like inspections do not qualify as a true diagnosis. For example:

  1. Quoting a repair based only on symptoms (e.g., “brakes squeak, so it must need pads and rotors”).
  2. Visual checks without testing (e.g., “battery looks old, so replace it”).
  3. Blanket recommendations (replace whole assemblies without proving failure).

These are quick checks, not diagnostic work. A shop may still charge a small fee for them, but they don’t count as true diagnosis.

The Root Parallels With a Doctor Visit

Charging a fee for a doctor’s visit and an automotive diagnostic fee are very similar:

  1. A doctor’s visit fee covers their expertise in evaluating symptoms, ordering appropriate tests, and making a diagnosis, but not necessarily the treatment itself.
  2. An automotive diagnostic fee works the same way: you’re paying for the technician’s time, tools, and expertise to figure out what’s wrong, but not for the actual fix.

For example:

  1. A check engine light diagnosis ($120) is like a doctor visit copay + blood test.
  2. Replacing the faulty oxygen sensor ($300) is like filling a prescription after the diagnosis.

In other words, a “diagnosis” is a skilled investigation, whereas an “inspection” is an observation even a novice car owner can make. Therefore, the OP and his supporting commenters are justified in viewing the lug nut problem as not a diagnostic for which the OP was being charged for in the estimate.

Advertising

Protect Your Car with the Best Car Wheel Theft Deterrent Locking Lug Nuts

As promised, here is how to DIY this owner’s problem and decide on the best way to protect your car from wheel theft:

Wheel Theft Problem

In earlier articles, we’ve discussed how catalytic converter theft is a major problem for many car owners. Not only is it the loss of the catalytic converter, but also the damage done to your car, which will need fixing and cost you a lot of money.

However, a lesser-reported item concerning cars is wheel theft.

When it comes to your wheels, you can easily spend $400 or more per tire; however, couple that with the loss of the rims as well to the criminally minded, and we’re talking about a crime that can set you back thousands of dollars.

Unfortunately, many car owners do not concern themselves with protecting their wheels from theft until they become a victim of the crime. Unfortunately, some brands of locking lug nuts are not as secure as marketers would have you think.

Case in point: A recent review by the Project Farm YouTube channel, where the host demonstrates that with some brands of locking lug nuts, a pair of vice grips is all it takes to defeat them.

Follow along with the host in a short video where he tests a few brands using:

  1. Locking pliers
  2. A wheel lock extractor
  3. An oversized lug socket
  4. A universal socket
  5. A portable welder

What you will see is that only one of the brands tested offers satisfactory wheel protection from theft.

No Time to Watch the Video? ‒Just in case you want the review results without watching the video, a helpful video summary is provided immediately below the Project Farm video.

Best Car Wheel Theft Deterrent Lug Nut? Can Any Wheel Lock Prevent Theft? Let’s find out!

Locking Lug Nut Brand Results: Secure vs. Easily Defeated (Project Farm Test)

  1. Advanced Wheel Lock System: Secure – The only design that withstood all removal methods except finally succumbing to a portable welder.
  2. Gorilla (Free-Spinning): Easily Defeated – Medium-priced, performed poorly in removal tests.
  3. Gorilla (Small Diameter Acorn): Easily Defeated – Also failed quickly during tampering attempts.
  4. McGard Wheel Lock: Easily Defeated – Affordable but didn’t hold up securely under attack.
  5. Dorman (Spinning Collar): Easily Defeated – Low-cost option, but failed to resist extraction methods.
  6. White Knight Locking Lug Nut: Easily Defeated – Performed poorly in all resistance tests.
  7. Tavaski Wheel Lock: Easily Defeated – Struggled against basic tool attacks.

In short, from the Project Farm video, the Advanced Wheel Lock System clearly outperformed all others—its cone-shaped design and robust build made it the only actual deterrent recommended by the tests. Meanwhile, most other common brands, even those popular for their affordability, proved vulnerable to relatively simple tools (vice grips, extractor kits, sockets, etc.).

Commercial Locking Lug Nut Busters

If you are looking for a commercially available tool for removing locking lug nuts rather than whaling on them with an old socket and hammer, here are two sources to consider:

Harbor Freight ($42.99) Universal Locking Lug Nut Removal Set

Walmart ($59.19): 22PCS Wheel Locking Nut Key Kit, Wheel Lock Nut Socket Adapter Set, Wheel Anti-Theft Lug Nut Removal Tool – Walmart.com

Timothy Boyer is an automotive reporter based in Cincinnati who currently researches and restores older vehicles, often incorporating engine modifications for improved performance. He also covers modern cars—including EVs—with a focus on DIY mechanics, tool use and selection, and other topics related to automotive repair. Follow Tim on Twitter (@TimBoyerWrites) and Facebook for daily updates and insights on new and used cars and trucks.

Image Source: Deposit Photos

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Source: torquenews.com

Filed Under: INDUSTRY NEWS Tagged With: Source-16

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